Probability Distribution of Near-Bed Water Particle Velocity Under Wave Action on a Sandy Beach

نوع مقاله : مقاله کامل پژوهشی

نویسندگان

1 گروه مهندسی عمران، دانشکده فنی، دانشگاه گیلان، گیلان، ایران

2 گروه مهندسی عمران، دانشکدده فنی، دانشگاه گیلان، گیلان، ایران

3 دانشکده مهندسی عمران، دانشگاه صنعتی خواجه نصیرالدین طوسی، تهران، ایران

10.22034/ceej.2026.70206.2470

چکیده

This study investigates the most suitable probability distribution function for near-bed water particle velocity under wave action on a sandy beach. Initially, an experimental study was conducted to measure near-bed particle velocities under irregular wave conditions. Based on these measurements, six different probability distribution functions were proposed to characterize particle velocity. Four of these distributions were derived by integrating the probability distribution of wave height with two wave theories: long wave theory and second-order Stokes theory. The remaining two distributions were developed by combining the probability distribution of sea surface displacement with the same wave theories. A detailed comparison between the proposed distributions and the experimental data indicated that the probability distribution based on sea surface displacement, combined with second-order Stokes theory, provides the highest accuracy. This distribution is particularly valuable for practical engineering applications, as it can be derived from readily available sea surface displacement data, which can be easily obtained using standard buoy measurements.

کلیدواژه‌ها

موضوعات


عنوان مقاله [English]

Probability Distribution of Near-Bed Water Particle Velocity Under Wave Action on a Sandy Beach

نویسندگان [English]

  • Seyed Ahmad Neshaei 1
  • Arvin Jalali Gilani 2
  • Mir Abdolhamid Mehrdad 2
  • Ata Ghabraei 1
  • Pooya Rezadoost 3
1 Department of Civil Engineering, Faculty of Engineering, University of Guilan, Guilan, Iran
2 Department of Civil Engineering, Faculty of Engineering, University of Guilan, Guilan, Iran
3 Faculty of Civil Engineering, K.N. Toosi University of Technology, Tehran, Iran
چکیده [English]

This study investigates the most suitable probability distribution function for near-bed water particle velocity under wave action on a sandy beach. Initially, an experimental study was conducted to measure near-bed particle velocities under irregular wave conditions. Based on these measurements, six different probability distribution functions were proposed to characterize particle velocity. Four of these distributions were derived by integrating the probability distribution of wave height with two wave theories: long wave theory and second-order Stokes theory. The remaining two distributions were developed by combining the probability distribution of sea surface displacement with the same wave theories. A detailed comparison between the proposed distributions and the experimental data indicated that the probability distribution based on sea surface displacement, combined with second-order Stokes theory, provides the highest accuracy. This distribution is particularly valuable for practical engineering applications, as it can be derived from readily available sea surface displacement data, which can be easily obtained using standard buoy measurements.

کلیدواژه‌ها [English]

  • Probability distribution
  • Near-bed water particle velocity
  • Sandy beach
  • Second-order stokes theory
  • Sea surface displacement